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Subject: Re: ? about giant lathe (Noble & Lund 96"x30')

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 05:57:22 GMT

As big lathes go this is a baby (well mid-range at best) I spent part

of my apprenticeship running a monster 108" swing dual bed ,dual

carriage, roll turning lathe, that would take 48 feet and 90 tons

between centers. Speeds ranged from 1 minute per rev to 12 rev per

minute. It took a crane and about an hour to change the position of

the four face plate jaws. Drive was DC and all controls were on a multi

button pendant...At one rev/ minute jogging speed you learned to true up

a job in two revolutions or less!!

The carriages each had a staircase up about eight feet from ground

level, then there was another staircase up to the top slide which had

about twelve feet of travel and could be set up to cut threads from 8

tpi to about 12" pitch!! One of the fun jobs was screw cutting the cable

ways on eight foot diameter x 14 foot long hoist winding drums. These

were a half round groove for a 1 1/2" dia. cable. Half the drum was

left hand thread the other half right hand pitch. Thats a half round

form tool 1 1/2 inches across cutting full width!..Screw-cutting!! On

some larger (longer) jobs you would have both carriageways machining at

once..that was fun!!!

Tools varied from HSS to carbide inserts and even some early cermets

for chilled iron rolls. Average insert size was 1 1/2" square x 1/2"

thick and held in tool holders up to six inches square. These were in

turn held down by a couple of huge straps with four nuts on each about

six inches across flats. The wrench was about eight feet long and had

to be brought up on the crane. I remember one job on a huge steam

turbine rotor where we strapped the head and turret from a bridgeport

mill onto the tool post to mill a key way.

This type of machine is used daily in heavy engineering works, steel

mills, shipyards arsenals etc. and their work includes the

aforementioned steam turbines, hydro electric generators, steel mill

rolls, gun barrels, monster reduction gears for aircraft carriers, oil

tankers etc.

I spent an interesting and informative six months running that machine

and then went on to a 42 foot diameter vertical boring machine and

thence to a 24 foot wide x 48 foot stroke planer. One thing I learned

was to plan the job ahead..mistakes were big and expensive!!

The other thing I learned was that I didn't want to spend the rest of my

life doing that...I still have one shoulder almost an inch lower than

the other and now, in my fifties I hurt all over, every day as a direct

result of the sheer "horse work" of running machines like that while I

was in my teens.

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Subject: Re: Little Elevator/Big Lathe

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:14:14 GMT

The Millwrights,(riggers) if they are worth their salt, will find this

one a breeze! Standard practice is to drop the elevator to the

basement, open the doors and hoist the machine up the shaft..on end if

necessary. Yes they do drop them on occasion!! I saw the very first

Herbert CNC lathe dropped four stories..made a right mess of the

elevator. They may decide it is easier to go up the outside with a

crane and scoot it through the window.

My advice is to leave it to the professionals..if only for insurance

purposes.

I put a Smart and Brown Model A Toolrom lathe into my (then) townhouse

basement by dropping it vertically through a 24"x30" hole I cut in the

floor right inside the front door. I built two custon "A" frfames out of

4x4 lumber, one for outside and one for inside. The lathebed was split

from the base, which was the heaviest piece. Total weight close to a

ton.

Myself and two helpers had the hole cut, lathe in and the hole buttoned

up with carpet relaid inside an hour..before "She Who Must Be Obeyed"

came home from the mall. I never did tell her how I got the lathe in

there. OBTY it came out the same way in even less time..we were experts

by then!!

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: looking for 52100 alloy

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:21:26 GMT

You'll be real lucky to find it outside of custom rolled mill lots. When

and if you do you'll have a bunch of knifemakers lining up (or running

all over you). 52100 alloy is a specialised steel for bearings and a

favorite with some knifemakers. They have to forge blades out from

large balls, rollers or races. Good luck.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Bolt, thread and tap sizes reference

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:27:14 GMT

What you need are "ZEUS" charts ....standard in any machinist's box.

Dunno where you'd find them but when you do..let me know..I need to

replace mine.

Starrett do a single page chart too..try a distributor.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: #2 MT collets / Hex and Square

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:33:17 GMT

Hardinge will make hex., square, or any other shape you want in 2MT,

3MT 3C 5C and B&S.

You might try Myford in England..2MT collets are their standard...they

have a web address..try a search.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: how to bolt together to S-section I-beams

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:39:36 GMT

You use taper washers..they are available from where you buy your

steel. Don't bother to ask at Ace Hardware..they will look at you

funny.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: aligning holes in tube

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 04:34:30 GMT

The good 'ole eyeball will never let you down.

Assuming that you are using a drill press and know how to align and

clamp down a vee block to said drill press table.

Drill your first hole and swap ends. Now put as long a piece of close

fitting rod as you can get under the ceiling,through the first hole.

Drop a plumb line somewhere beyond it and eyball the rod to the plumb

line. It will be plenty close enough for almost any purposes.

This does assume that your drill press is somewhere close to being

perpendicular. You might want to eyeball it with the plumb line

first.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Auger screws; anyone know how to make them?????????????

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 06:20:53 GMT

Two ways I have used..depends on I/d to O/d and thickness of material.

Narrow flights (1 to 4 inches wide) can be rolled on edge from strip

stock. You may need custom grooved rollers.

For larger and thicker flights..flame cut a series of plate rings

(Annuli !) cut one side on centerline, heat and pull open to pitch

dimension..(axially that is). weld to next flight and repeat.

For really big ones, flame cut segments of a turn to save material.

I have built them (For continuous decanting centrifuges) with a core

dia 36'' , O/D of 60 inches, length 12 feet'' material..1/2"

stainless. Hard faced and ground to gage.

Don't want to make another!!

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: "I" beams as lathe beds etc.

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 04:53:59 GMT

One of the "top of the line" German CNC Lathes (GDF I think) Has a

bed/mainframe made of reinforced concrete with hardened steel ways

bonded in place. I did hear of one instance where the ways fell off.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Help with 4 Jaw Chuck

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 00:22:57 GMT

It is not easy to figure out, from your description , exactly what the

problem is..but it sounds like a bent screw.

Remove all four jaws. You will notice that the screws have a necked

section that runs in a forked insert. Look at the back of the chuck

and you may see four round plugs. If not, remove the backplate and you

should see them.

Using a narrow, flat ended punch , and from the front of the chuck,

gently tap the forked plugs out and the screws should slip out of their

holes.

Check the screws and straighten if required. Make sure the jaws are a

good sliding fit.

Pop the screws back in and tap the forked plugs in from the back..DON'T

GO TOO DEEP Or the screws will bind. Reassemble jaws and backplate.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Mounting a back plate on a three jaw chuck

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 09:03:33 GMT

Cutting a step to suit the recess in the back of the chuck is certainly

the "textbook" way.

However, it may not be the "best" way!

I always mount my 3-jaws without a locating spigot and drill rather

oversized clearance holes for the mounting bolts. That way you can ease

off the bolts and tap any particular job into dead alignment. (don't

forget to tighten the bolts up again before turning)

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: MSC nice guys <g>

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 05:43:31 GMT

MSC _are_nice guys (and Gals) to deal with.

I'm fortunate in that I live in Atlanta and can nip around the perimeter

to their main distribution center (not in rush hour!!)

Service is quick, competent and very friendly..nothing is too much

trouble. Never yet ordered anything that was out of stock and not ready

for me when I arrived thiry minutes after placing a phone order.

Prices and quality are more than competitive.

Specials are really a good deal, but their regular prices are usually as

good or better than other suplpiers "specials"

There is always something "tasty" on the "scratch and dent" table in the

store, which makes each visit an adventure.

I have had only one return so far and that was done without question or

quible.

These people are to be commended and encouraged..they get 90% of my

business!

I haven't been able to spring a new catalogue out of them..yet!

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Stupid Question

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 06:33:34 GMT

Scott S. Logan wrote:

> If I've got this straight, to cut a 1.75mm pitch with a 6mm pitch lead

> screw, you would need a threading dial with some multiple of 7 teeth

> in the gear. (6mm x 7 turns=42mm and 1.75mm x 24 turns=42mm)

>

> To cut 1.25mm, you would need some multiple of 5. (6mm x 5 turns=30mm

> and 1.25mm x 24 turns=30mm)

This is precisely what I have on my Maximat Super II

It is fitted with an 8tpi leadscrew and a thread indicator dial with three

gears..14, 15 and 16 tooth which can be engaged at will with the leadscrew. For

Imperial pitches only the 16t gear is ever used and pickup is the usual 1,2,4 or

1,2 or 1only, depending on the pitch. With metric threads I am stuck with the same

pickup problems as anyone else with an imperial lead screw.

However, if I had a lot of metric threads to cut, I would change to a 3mm pitch

leadscrew. I would then be able, by ringing the changes on the three pickup

gears, to get 1,2,4 or 1,2 or 1,3 or 1 pickup on the following range of metric

pitches:

0.175, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.25, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 3.5, 4.5 and 5.0

(this according to the instruction manual)

It is significant that 0.5 and 1mm pitch are missing from this list.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Stupid Question

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 06:52:02 GMT

Robert Bastow wrote:

However, if I had a lot of metric threads to cut, I would change to a 3mm pitch

leadscrew. I would then be able, by ringing the changes on the three pickup

> gears, to get 1,2,4 or 1,2 or 1,3 or 1 pickup on the following range of metric

> pitches:

> 0.175, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.25, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 3.5, 4.5 and 5.0

> (this according to the instruction manual)

>

> It is significant that 0.5 and 1mm pitch are missing from this list.

>

>

On re-reading the manual (which appears to have been translated from the original

German by a first year Chinese student of Arabic, with English as a fourth

language!!)..I _think_ that pickup on 0.5 and 1.0mm pitch can be done at any position.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Casting a sailboat keel

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 07:10:31 GMT

Alan Shinn wrote:

> Richard Sewell wrote:

> >

> > In article <360B7F4C.E7E694CB@>, gashmore@

> > (Glenn Ashmore) wrote:

> >

> > > Steve Rayner wrote:

> > >

> > > > How about sealing the drain, and using the back of the tub as a spout.

> > > > Pivot the back. Rig a tripod of heavy steel tubing over the front.

> > > > Use a

> > > > chain block, or tripod and boom to lift the other end from a distance.

> > > > Make sure that the tub can't tip over sideways!

> > >

> > > Considering how much I am abusing this tub already, I don't even want

> > > to tickle it while it is

> > > hot.

> >

> > Incidentally, with all this talk of plugs, I've started to worry about the

> > force you'll need to apply to lift a plug against the pressure of the lead

> > above it. It'll be equal to the weight of the lead cylinder directly above

> > the plug, if you see what I mean.

> >

> > Richard Sewell rsewell@cix.co.uk

>

> Or at least a plug the diameter of the drain.

> For this same reason, an iron ball would not float once completely

> immersed (you would have to hold it down for awhile with your myrtle

> branch). Try this with water and a tennis ball in your (real) bathtub.

> --

>

> Looking forward:

> Alan Shinn

>

> Experience the

> beginnings of microscopy.

> Make or buy your own replica

> of one of Antony van Leeuwenhoek's microscopes.

> visit /~alshinn/

I strongly recommend setting up a screw (threaded rod about 3/4" dia should do

it) to raise the plug with some control and give yourself a fighting chance to

throttle the flow or close it off if something starts to go wrong (remember

murphy?!!)

Another consideration is the bubble of air that will be explosively ejected from

the flow pipe when you open the valve..you need to control, and protect against,

that.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Not a great weekend (and some car tips)

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 07:25:04 GMT

Fitch R. Williams wrote:

> I used to love heading out to the barn to do chores on those cold

> winter evenings when the snow was falling in the soft light of the

> barn pole lamp, made crunching and squeaking sounds as I walked, and

> the cold dry air tingled the hair in my nose. Havn't experienced that

> in a looooong time.

>

> Thanks for the plesant memory.

>

> Fitch

> In So. Cal.

Fitch...you're sick!!! 8^)

I lived for twelve cold years in the (lake effect) snow belt of the Niagara

Peninsular before finally escaping back to the sunny south (Atlanta) Yes I

know we get tornados and the fringe effects of hurricanes...I don't care so

long as I don't have to shovel it!!

I don't do snow any more..my family knows that robins, holly and Santa are

ok on Christmas cards...but no snow!!!

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Not a great weekend (and some car tips)

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 15:55:24 GMT

Fitch R. Williams wrote:

Once or twice a year - most but not all years - we get a tiny bit of snow

here. It lasts about 24 hours to 36 hours max, the FWY is shut down, then

melts.

Two or three years ago we had the "Blizzard of the Century" here in

"Hotlanta".....4 to 6 inches..which would have been classed as a light

sprinkle in Ontario.

Funniest thing I ever saw was the first snowfall in Cairo, Egypt for about 25

years. About a sixteenth of and inch that stayed all of ten minutes! But in a

city of eleven million people who had never seen it or driven in it, with an

_accumulative_ total of 1/8th inch of tire tread between them and not a single

windshield wiper in the city, it was a hoot to watch!

On a normal ,dry day there is a major collision at ever major intersection,

every hour, on the hour. You can imagine that with the snow it was "Fred

Karno's Karnage"!

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Not a great weekend (and some car tips)

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 23:17:16 GMT

DoN. Nichols wrote:

> Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@> wrote:

>

> I would have replied by e-mail, but that e-mail address looks like a

> spam-proof one, so I'm going for the newsgroup instead.

>

> >Funniest thing I ever saw was the first snowfall in Cairo, Egypt for about 25

> >years. About a sixteenth of and inch that stayed all of ten minutes! But in a

> >city of eleven million people who had never seen it or driven in it, with an

> >_accumulative_ total of 1/8th inch of tire tread between them and not a single

> >windshield wiper in the city, it was a hoot to watch!

>

> Especially given the typical speeds and inter-vehicle clearance

> there. :-)

>

> >On a normal ,dry day there is a major collision at ever major intersection,

> >every hour, on the hour. You can imagine that with the snow it was "Fred

> >Karno's Karnage"!

>

> Interesting. I was *told* (by someone in the tourist industry) that

> there were never any accidents, and I started looking at the vehicles as

> they whizzed by. I saw *no* crumpled metal, or signs of crumpled metal

> having been "fixed", even though quite a few of the vehicles had been in use

> long enough so the paint was wearing thin, and there was a light film of

> rust forming on some of the vehicles.

>

> So -- since what you say agrees with what I felt *must* be the case,

> what happens to the victims? Are all the vehicles totaled in these wrecks?

>

> I was rather amazed at the skills of the taxi drivers, with what

> felt like a fore-and-aft clearance of 1-3 feet, and a lateral clearance of

> 8-12 inches -- at speeds around 50+ MPH.

>

> Thanks,

> DoN.

All I can say Don is that either, Cairo has changed a LOT in the past twnty years,

or,we are talking about a different Cairo.

The carnage was horrendous. At almost every intersection you would come across a

high speed, total write-off wreck and bodies. Almost without exception there would

be

a black and white Fiat taxi involved.

So far as dings and dents went..you could NEVER find a car without plenty. I once

had a

bet on with a friend that he couldn't find a car without a dent. After a whole days

searching

he dragged me triuphantly into a new car showroom and presented a gleaming, brand

new

black Mercedes. We walked around it and sure enough there was a ding in the

door!!!

My scariest trip was hammering across the desert road from Cairo to Alexandria in a

clapped

out diesel Peugeot 504 with eight people in it and four bald tires. One a cross

ply, one a steel

belt and two different sized/makes of textile belts!

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: Not a great weekend (and some car tips)

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1998 04:37:38 GMT

DoN. Nichols wrote:

> Wonderful! I figured that the first part of the vehicle to fail

> *must* be the horn,

They don't have horn buttons....just an on switch....or wired direct to the ignition.

The cacophany of blaring horns, mixed with braying donkeys starts at five am and goes on

twenty two hours a day

> and the brakes probably lasted for the life of the

> vehicle. :-)

>

> BRAKES?????

>

> --

>

I once passed an interesting hour watching a pavement crafts man in the "Souks" (Bazaar).

He was sitting on a carpet on the ground holding a Ford piston between his bare feet

while he filed off about 60 thou on diameter to fit an old Mercedes engine. I have no

doubt in my mind that it worked perfectly when he had done. Those street craftsmen were

incredible.

Robert Bastow

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Subject: Re: The perfect shop: floors

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 08:22:33 GMT

Steve Rayner wrote:

> A wooden floor is best, with the machines mounted on raised concrete slabs

> that extend just above the floor.

>

> Scott A. Moore (samiamREMOVE@) wrote:

> : Oh, well, its two months off, but its on my mind!

>

> : I am planning to insulate and roof in my new shop garage, but

> : I also know that concrete floors suck the heat right out of

> : the air. I can't think of a whole lot of surfaces that are

> : appropriate for machining !

I second the wooden floors bit. I am slowly building my perfect shop in the

basement(with slightly damp concrete floor). Main bitch is the back and leg

problems caused by hard concrete floor, plus the dust and damp problem.

After a lot of research I decided to go with a fairly springy arrangement and I

love it.

My procedure is to first seal the floor with a thick coat of black roofing

"tar"..it is far cheaper than the floor sealants and seems to work just as

well. Over this, while it is wet I lay a layer of thick roofing paper. On this

I lay 2 x 2 pressure treated sleepers, first in a 4' x 8' perimeter and then

cross to divide in to eight.. 2 ' square sections. I tried one area with only

3 dividers and that (in front of the bench) is maybe a little too springy.

The perimeter bearers are pinned with a couple or three concrete nails, the

rest are glued down with "liquid nails" This is done while the sealant is

still wet so that the few nails will be self sealing On top of this goes 3/4"

tongue and grooved, flooring grade, plywood which is nailed to the sleepers.

Under areas where I placed benches and light machines I added additional wood

blocking...To the point of being almost solid under the table saw and jointer.

I tried the same under my Maximat Super II lathe and it was a no-go. Solution

was to mark VERY carefully the position of the jacking screws (by screwing them

down into the wooden floor). Move the lathe to one side and drill 2" diameter

holes through the plywood. into these I dropped close fitting 2'' diameter

steel plugs, faced to the floor thickness (2 1/4'') in length and into one end

of which I had put a substantial drill dimple to suit the jacking screws.

Moved lathe back and leveled it...solid as a rock!!..with a nice "springy"

floor all around it.

Proof of the effectivness of the water proofing came a week later. While we

were away on vacation the neighborhood was hit by a tornado. Missed us by a

few yards!! But the power was out for several hours and without the sump pump

the basement flooded to a depth of one inch..ie below the new floor.

Absolutely no loss or damage to any equipment or materials..Phew!!

As of yet I haven't decided on the best finish for the floor but I'm hankering

after prefinished oak parquet (surprisingly cheaper than vinyl) for the wood

working area and the hardest, thickest vinyl tiles I can find (like the old

"Battleship Linoleum in the metal shop. I like tiles because they can be

replaced if worn or damaged. Expensive? Yes but I worked long and hard to be

able to spend a lot of time in the future in MY "Perfect Shop"

I would welcome other suggestions on a suitable finish for the metal area..I'm

kinda committed to the structure!

Do you know the difference between "involved" and "committed"?

Its kinda like bacon and eggs.....The chicken is involved, the pig is

committed!!

Robert Bastow

Don't force it...Use a bigger hammer!

============

Subject: Re: The perfect shop: floors

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 04:58:16 GMT

Where I "served my time"....in a hundred year old, multi-acreage sized,

engineering plant..all the floors were wooden "sets" These are end

grain wooden blocks set on a rammed earth base. Very durable, non slip,

"warm" (relative term..the shop could be well below freezing during

winter!!), tough as old boots, yet gentle on dropped parts. Added

advantage that chocks could be spiked down to stop things rolling or

slipping.

In machine shops we were provided with wooden duck boards for the

operators to stand on.

A good one would be strips of softwood say 1/1/2" x 3/4" x 6ft long;

nailed at 3/4" spacing onto four, underneath, cross battens of the same

section and about 30" wide.

These are resilient, thus easy on the back and legs, allow swarf (chips)

and coolant to drain, and provide a non slip surface.

As a by-word I would implore all machinists to ensure that the area

around machinery is kept clean, dry and free of obstacles. Always know

your escape route if something goes wrong. I once witnessed an

apprentice, with his hands in his pockets, trip and fall head first

onto the table of a large, rotating, VTL (Vertical Turning Lathe).

I had to help pick up the bits!!

Wood floors do seem to stand up reasonably well and the advantages

outweigh the disadvantages in my honest opinion. Indeed we found the

most durable and comfortable footwear was wooden soled, leather upper,

clogs shod with clog irons and nails. Your feet would remain snug and

comfortable for 16 hour double shifts and the uppers wore out before the

soles!

Robert Bastow (Who is not as old as I maybe sound)

============

Subject: Re: Interrupted Screw Threads?

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 10:02:20 GMT

> OK, may I muddy the waters a little here :)

>

> The process described works fine for *single* interrupted threads.

> But look more closely at that artillery piece (especially a large

> one). Chances are, it's not a single thread cut at 90 degree points,

> but *two* interleaved threads cut out at 60 degrees.

> So moving around the circumference, one sees:

>

> 1. Large diameter thread

> 2. Smaller diameter thread

> 3. Cut clean away

> 4. Repeat from [1]

>

> When disengaged, the small (male) thread can pass clean through the

> large female, while the cut-away section passes clean through the

> small thread.

> The closed breech now has engaged threads over 66% of its

> circumference, not 50%. Result: a stronger gun.

>

> Now please, how to cut those threads (esp. the interior one)?

>

> -- Dave Brooks <.au/~daveb>

> PGP public key via <.au/~daveb/crypto.html>, or servers

Dead on description Dave of what is called a "Welin" breech screw. Some of the

larger ones have three or even four steps.

For a good picture of one go to your search engine, enter" breech" and it will

take you to a site in Finland that has as good a picture as I've seen. I do have

the URL but it doesn't seem to transmit well.

Now as to how they are made. The article in the ME was not a very good

description. In real life they are done on special machines that combine the

operation of a relieving lathe (used also for turning relieved form tools such as

gear hobs) and an intermitant drive (probably some form of "geneva" motion.

I am currently building a 1/8th scale model of a WW I 9.2" howitzer which has a

two step Welin screw. Here's how I plan to do it.

First job is to slow the lathe down from minimum low speed of 55 rev/min to a

tenth of that. I have rigged a temporary drive from a DC motor to an auxilliary

pully on the main drive motor with a 10 to 1 reduction. The main drive acts only

as a jockey shaft. Now I get variable speed from zero to five rpm..Lotsa torque!!

Fitted to the chuck back plate is a cam that controls the cross slide movement via

a direct push rod. The cam has four quadrants at 90 degrees, each quadrant has a

full dia (controls major thread dia on the female bush..opposite on the male).

then there is a sharp drop off (square edge follower) to relieve from major dia to

minor dia. The minor dia is not controlled by the cam but independently by an

adjustable back stop on the cross slide. This gives me independent control of the

two thread diameters..relative to each other. The final step of each quadrant is

ramp back up to major dia.

In operation the feed screw is removed from the cross slide just as in taper

turning and cross slide is controlled by a strong spring in one direction and and

adjustable stop in the other. Segments are planed out of the bush and breech

block , obviously, before threading.

Not quite as simple as some people think but quite straight forward after you have

thought about it for 35 years as I have done with this particular model!!!

Robert Bastow

Don't force it..Use a bigger hammer!!

============

Subject: Re: lathe reconditioning

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 05:25:22 GMT

Russ Kepler wrote:

>

>

> Turcite apparently comes in a couple of liquid forms, a thicker and

> thinner version. There is also several thicknesses of sheet

> available. The type I saw used was the thicker liquid.

>

Hi Russ,

I used the 1/16'' Turcite to rebuild a Smart and Browne Model A toolroom lathe

(very similar to a Monarch EE)

After getting the bed reground I set up the saddle on the milling machine and

removed enough metal from the ways to accomodate the Turcite (pronounced

Tur-Kite) This material is a tuquoise colored, extruded PTFE based material

with additives. One side is etched to provide a key for the special (and VERY

expensive) two part epoxy used to bond the Turcite to the saddle. After

thorough degreasing, the ways are buttered with epoxy, precut strips laid in

place and the saddle clamped onto the bed. After curing the saddle pops off

and can then be finish scraped into true alignment.

It is best to machine the saddle to remove oil contamination and to avoid having

to shim the apron and leadscrew back into position

Turcite does a wonderful job. Slip-stick is virtually eliminated and clearances

can be set to zero..thus eliminating chatter. It will turn a good lathe into a

superb one.

Turcite is made by Shamban and they do have a web site.

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 06:05:35 GMT

Rev Chuck wrote:

>

>

> Know the difference between a Yugo and a Jehovah's Witness?

>

> You can shut the door on the Witness.

>

> --

> Do you know why Trabants have a heated rear window?

So your hands don't freeze when you push it!

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:29:25 GMT

Carl Byrns wrote:

> What can I say? You chaps also drink warm beer and eat kidney pie! Not

> to mention you all drive on the wrong side of road.

>

Urban Myths....

English beer is served just 3 degrees warmer than US bee....shit!

English beer is full flavored and designed to be quaffed in large quantities from

wide mouth glasses..not sipped pansy style from long necked bottles!! Find an

English or Irish Pub (the fastest growing segment in the bar business) and try

it. It will knock you flat on your ass the first few times...but I'll guarantee

you come back for more. ( Newcastle Brown Ale is called "Oil of Olay"....four

pints makes every woman look beautiful!!!!)

The correct name is "Steak and Kidney Pie"....with the emphasis on STEAK. The

kidney is there in miniscule quantities to add delicious flavor. If you find a

piece of kidney in a steak and kidney pud..it hasn't be made right.

Check out a Ford "Fliver" most of them were Right hand drive. The US drove on the

left in the days of Horses and the early days of Horseless carriages. No-one

seems quite sure as to when and why the US went "cack-handed"

In terms of population the majority of people in the world drive on the left.

I love the Good 'Ole US of A...I CHOSE to live here twenty-three years ago and

married a Southern Belle from Olde Alabamie. I do think though, it is time that

WE Americans woke up to the fact that there is a whole different world out there

and stopped being so bloody PAROCHIAL!!!

All flames to be written on $100.00 bills and forwarded by express mail.

PS I love fried okra...But I REALLY love Liver and Onions FWIW 8^)

Robert Bastow

Proud Brit, Proud Yank.

============

Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend

From: Robert Bastow <Tubal_cain@>

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 02:28:38 GMT

Wayne Cook wrote:

> . I can get 3 phase

> anytime I want and can probably get it for little to no money (it

> helps to be friends with the local head of the power company .....

> ...............so when I need 3 phase to my new shop (going up

> in the next year I hope) to tell him and he'll see what he can do.

>

> Wayne Cook

> Shamrock TX

As ever...It is not what you know..It is who you know, that knows how!

============

Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:51:28 GMT

PLAlbrecht wrote:

Things like this are one reason people lease cars. If it's really, truly bad, maybe

you still have some recourse (not sure about that, but if the thing is truly a

lemon, seems you can let them have it back...)

Pete

Nope! A vehicle lease is a cast iron contract. The lessor takes no responsibility

for "fitness for purpose" Your contract is likely sold within hours of you signing

it, to a finance/collection outfit who will shit all over you and your credit

rating if you don't pay up. No matter what the reason!

Been there..done that...couldn't afford the tee-shirt! 8^(

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 03:01:16 GMT

plastic wrote:

> That fuel costs far to much in England.

Yeah. But you don't have to drive half a day to get anywhere.

My wife commutes to work, daily, further than most English people drive on an

annual vacation

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 04:31:18 GMT

plastic wrote:

> I did have a series 2 Jaguar V12 and it was a dog, then I got a series

> 3 and it was 100% reliable. All the Jags were imported. God they were

> beautiful to drive.

Yeah they kinda spoil you for anything else thats on the road.

My experience mirrors yours

1st was a Series II XJCV12 2 door piilarless coupe. A dog but smooooooth

wish I had it now ..they are highly sought after.

2nd was a Series III XJV12 1989..the very last of the series and a very

reliable and refined car I did 189000 miles in it with nothing but routine

maintenance. Plugs were changed at 90,000 averaged 18 mpg around town and 23

on a run. 22 pints of oil for an oil change. (I didn't say cheap)

3rd 1995 XJV12 6 liter and the last of the breed. Absolutely superlative

vehicle..cannot fault it. Will go faster from 60 to 120 than most "sports

cars" can get 0-60 Total delight to drive, docile,silent and smooth. But

that pussy cat can growl when you need it. Finished in Black Cherry...this is

a Keeper.

Interestingly, Insurance cost is very reasonable, My Agent told me that in

terms of vehicle/miles/fatalities they are the safest car on the road in N

America with not a single recorded fatality in an XJV12!!

The reasons are..not many about. As I recall mine was one of only 42 sold in

96 and the only Jaguar on the whole continent painted this color!

Age and experience of drivers. The few young people that can afford them want

something flashier.

The safety of superb handling acceleration ad stopping power can get you out

of situations where lesser cars would have a major accident.

Last but by no means least..they are built like a tank. and at something

approaching 5000 pounds would plow straight through most cars (and a lot of

trucks) without noticeable deceleration!!

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: Why turn rotors? WAS Not a great weekend

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:20:12 GMT

Fitch R. Williams wrote:

> My Dad had an XK140 fixed head coupe followed by a XK150 Drop Head Coupe back in

> the lathe 1950s. I recall that it took quite a slug of oil. the engine and

> drive train were near perfection except that the synchromesh on the transmission

> wasn't particularely wonderful, and it had a really really long throw from first

> to second. The rest of the car was a continual PITA in Michigan. Doors would

> freeze shut at night, disc brakes on the 150 were totally allergic to the

> chloride used on the roads and pads were major expensive. Dad loved both of

> them but only drove the 140 45K miles and the 150 about a 50K before selling

> them.

>

> do they still have the same inline DOHC six with the nice sounding chain drive

> cams?

Nobody ever bought a Jaguar just for transportation!

The old DOHC Six was replaced by SOHC six in, I believe, 1997.

That, and the V12 have been replaced by a V8 in the last couple of years

Very nice engine but I will miss the turbine-like smoothness of the V12.

However, they do have a supercharged version of the V8 in the XJR. I test drove

one.

The handling is superb and the performance is shattering. It's on order!! My wife

wants the XJV12.

Robert Bastow

JagNut!

============

Subject: Re: Antique gas engine kits??

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 06:14:54 GMT

Russ Kepler wrote:

> Actually, as list-mom

Are you my Mommy?

Hey guys come on over and give the modeleng-list a try..lots of good information

and company.

Just don't try to run off subject as long as you do here. Thats when Russ turns

net-nanny!!

And don't mention Weetabix!!

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: Rotary Table for sale

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 19:34:45 GMT

Dick Brewster wrote:

> Enco also has H/V rotary tables on sale. $189 for the 8 inch Enco,

> and you can get the table plus tailstock and dividing plates for

> $289.

> The 10 inch Enco is $220 for the table and $339 for the combo.

>

>

MSC has the 10" Phase II H&V Rotary table for sale at $299

Phase II is usually good quality.

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: Precision reciprocating grinder

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 06:57:06 GMT

Steve Rayner wrote:

> They are called a toolpost grinder. ..........

> I have one in the design stage right now.

I would be very interested in the bearing design and specification.

Do you intend to use angular contact bearings?

What size and ABEC spec?

What provision for preloading?

What about sealing?

What HP drive and belt type?

Spindle nose and/or collet sizes?

Appreciated.

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: Amazing Press

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 11:47:48 GMT

This is a big press but by no means the worlds largest.

I used to work for a company in the UK with a 50,000 ton press.

It was used for making large steel pressure vessals...hydraulic

accumulators etc.

It would take a huge cube of 4140X and in one push would back extrude it

into an open ended cup with a six inch wall thickness. Hydraulic mains

were 24" dia (saw one break once...Oops!!)

Demag in Germany have a 75000 tonner and I believe there is an even

bigger one in Russia.

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: Hare brained scheme, hole poking invited...

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 12:12:57 GMT

Jeff DelPapa wrote:

> I have gotten very tired of losing register every time I need to move

> the head on my mill drill. (snip) So now I have another strange idea,

> replace the

> round section with a square one, and carve out the head casting to

> match...(Big snip)

>

As you say....a hare brained scheme and a collosol amount of uneccessary

time

and expense. A square column with a dovetail is redundent design..you only

need

one or the other.

Simplest way is to attach a feather key to the column (no need to mill a

key way for it).

Take the head casting to a decent machine shop and have them broach a

keyway in it for you.

Have this made 1/8" wider than the feather key and offset from C/L by that

amount...then you can

fit a gib strip and adjusting screws.

A better device would be a triangular gib key..but that would be a whole

lot more difficult to

machine and fit.

I was looking at a JET Mill/drill the other day and it was fitted with an

elevating rack. This was

designed to swivel around the column...exactly like a drill press.

You have most of the elements there for a feather key alignment....Get the

rack strip ground

accurately parallel on its sides. Screw it to the column..a few

counterbored capscrews will

not interfere with the rack operation.Figure out how to fit and adjust a

thin flat gig strip (or open

up the existing keyway as above).

I realise you will loose the swing head feature, but that may be an

acceptable compromise.

There are mill/drills built in Europe with exactly this system of

alignment.

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: mill/drill

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 12:32:37 GMT

rkurtz wrote:

> I recently bought a mill/drill from harbor freight. After cleaning the

> shipping grease off I sprayed the gibs and ways with wd-40 (what I could

> get to). I tried to move the x and y tables. The x moves but with great

> effort. The y takes 2 hands on the wheel and even more effort. I can

> get to the x lead screw from underneath to lube it. How do you lube the

> y lead screw? I've tried to loosen the gibs to hopefully lessen the

> pressure there but that didn't help. The instruction manual is in

> English but very Chinese written (worthless). Does anyone have a

> suggestion on the lube and table movement?

That much effort is NOT a lube problem.

First loosen lock screws!

Still a problem?

Then loosen the screws holding the feed screw mounting brackets

If that frees in up, move the table as close to the feedscrew mounting end

as possible

before snugging up the screws.

If it tightens up again try shimming the mounting bracket. It may be out of

square.

Next check the feed nuts. If they are loose it could cause jamming.

If they are not loose..try loosening them..they may be out of alignment.

If they have an antibacklash adjustment try backing this off (see your

manual)

Still a problem ?

Remove the feed screws altogether..you should be able to push the slides

reasonably easily

from one end to the other without shake or tight spots.

Check that the feedscrews rotate freely in their bearings

If you find tight spots you are into slideway scraping. If you know how to

do this...fine.

If not you now have grounds to demand a replacement machine.

Robert Bastow

============

Subject: Re: mill/drill

From: Robert Bastow <nil_carborundum@>

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 13:24:01 GMT

Dick Brewster wrote:

> With one large entrance to the shop at loading dock height.

>

> --

> Dick Brewster

>

>

Watch that first step...Its a Doozie!!

Robert Bastow

============



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